In rural areas, many homes do not have connections to municipal water and sewer lines. Homeowners rely upon
privately owned or communal (shared) wells as their drinking water source, and individual septic systems to treat
and discharge their wastewater. Homeowners must ensure that their well water is safe to drink, and that their well
and septic systems are properly maintained. A malfunctioning well or septic system can pose a health risk to your
family and neighbours, and can be expensive to repair or replace. It is therefore important to conduct a detailed
inspection of both the well and septic systems prior to purchasing a home. This document will describe how well and
septic systems function and how to inspect them.
Wells
When you are purchasing a home with a private water supply (a well), there are three key items to consider:
well system
water quantity
water quality
Well Systems
There are three common types of wells: dug, bored and drilled.
Dug and bored wells (60 – 120 cm/24 – 48 in. diameter) are commonly used to produce
water from shallow surface aquifers (less than 15 m/50 ft. deep); and are prone to contamination from surface water
infiltration and to water shortages (see Figure 1). An aquifer is an underground formation of permeable
rock or loose material, which can produce useful quantities of water when tapped by a well. Another type of well
used in surface aquifers is a sand point well (2.5 – 5 cm/1 – 2 in. diameter), which is a
pointed well screen connected to a small diameter pipe driven into water-bearing sand or gravel.
Figure 1: Dug well
Drilled wells (10 – 20 cm/4 – 8 in. diameter) are commonly used to penetrate deeper aquifers (15 to
greater than 60 m/50 to greater than 200 ft. deep), are more costly to construct, but generally provide a safer
source of drinking water (see Figure 2).
Figure 2: Drilled well
Common features of well systems include:
Casing — structure around the well hole, which keeps it from collapsing. It could be a steel casing,
concrete rings or an open hole in the bedrock.
Inlet — allows water to enter the well from the bottom. There might be a screen at the inlet to
prevent fine particles from entering the well and a foot-valve (check valve) to maintain the system’s prime and
pressure.
Pumping system — includes pump, piping and necessary electrical connections to pump water from the
well into the house, and a pressure tank to maintain constant water pressure in the house. Submersible pumps are
usually used in drilled wells, while shallow wells usually use centrifugal pumps, which are located out of the
well, most likely in the basement or in a pump house.
Surface protection — prevents surface water and contaminants from entering the well. It includes a
watertight seal placed around the casing (annular seal), a well cap 0.3 – 0.4 m (12 – 16 in.) above the ground, and
mounded earth around the top of the well casing to divert rainwater.
Well Inspection Checklist
The well should be inspected before the house is purchased. If there is a problem with the physical state of the
well (for example, cracked seals, settled casing) contact a licensed well contractor to correct the problem. Check
the Yellow Pages™ under “Water Well Drilling and Service” to find a local licensed well contractor.
Well record — Obtain a copy of the well record from the owner or
the Ministry of the Environment. This should include: location of well, date of well drilling,
depth and diameter of well, static water level, pumping water level, recommended pumping rate and
the recommended pump setting.
Location — A well should be located at least 15 m (50 ft.) from
any source of contamination if the casing is watertight to a depth of 6 m (20 ft.); otherwise, the
separation distance should be at least 30 m (100 ft.). Sources of contamination include: septic
systems, manure storages, fuel storages, agricultural fields (manure or fertilizer runoff), and
roads (salt runoff). Wells should be located at least 15 m (50 ft.) from a body of water (see
Figure 3).
Well cap — The cap should be at least 0.3 m (12 in.) above the
ground. The well cap and seal should be securely in place and watertight. A locking cap would give
some added security against tampering. Well caps are on drilled wells and well covers are on dug
wells. Both types should be inspected.
Well casing — No cracks or settling of the casing should be
visible. The ground should slope away from the casing.
Drainage — Surface water should drain away from the well and
water should not pond around the well casing.
Well pump — The well pump and distribution piping should be in
good condition.
Grass buffer — A permanent grass buffer of a minimum 4 m (12 ft.)
width should be maintained around the well head. Fertilizers and pesticides should not be applied
to the grass buffer.
Abandoned wells — All abandoned wells on a property must be
decommissioned (plugged) by a licensed well contractor. Ask the owner if there are any abandoned
wells on the property and if they have been properly decommissioned.
Inside the house — Check for sand or grit in the faucet strainer
which indicates a corroded well screen. Verify that the pressure tank reads between 250 to 400 kPa
(40 and 60 psi). Ensure that the check valve (or foot valve) is able to sustain the system pressure
by drawing no water for 30 minutes to an hour and monitoring the pressure. The pressure should not
drop nor should the pump start up during this dormant period.
Figure 3: Well separation distances
Water Quantity
Wells draw water from aquifers, which are zones of saturated permeable soil or rock. Some types of soil make for
good aquifers, such as gravel and fractured bedrock that can support high water pumping rates, while other types of
soil make for poor aquifers, such as silty sand and clay that cannot support high water pumping rates.
Wells can run dry for the following reasons:
The pumping rate is higher than the groundwater recharge rate.
The water table (level of saturated water in the soil) has dropped to below the pump suction or inlet.
The well screen has become plugged by fine sand, chemical precipitation, bacterial fouling or
corrosion.
If a well vent becomes blocked, a negative pressure may occur (in the well) during draw down and reduce or
stop the pump from drawing water.
If there is a water supply problem, a licensed well contractor should be consulted. Solutions may include: water
conservation in the home, digging a deeper well, unplugging a fouled well screen or replacing a corroded well
casing or screen. The cost of fixing the problem should be considered when negotiating the sale price for the
home.
There are three sources of information to help determine if a well can produce a sufficient quantity of
water:
local knowledge
well record
water recovery test
Local Knowledge
The best indication of whether there is sufficient water supply is to ask the owner, neighbours or local well
drillers if there have been any problems with wells running dry on the property and in the area. Generally, shallow
wells are more likely to have problems with water shortages than deep wells, as shallow wells draw water from
surface aquifers, which can fluctuate greatly depending upon the amount of precipitation.
Well Record
Obtain a copy of the well record from the previous owner or the Ministry of the Environment. The pumping water
level indicates if the well is shallow or deep (less than 15 m/50 ft. is considered a shallow well). The
recommended pumping rate should be greater than 14 L/min (3.6 US gal/min).
Water Recovery Test
A licensed contractor can be hired to conduct a recovery test which involves pumping water out of a well and
then giving it time to recharge. This can help you determine how much water you can draw from the well. A well
should be able to pump 14 L/min (3.6 US gal/min) for 120 minutes or 450 L/person/day (119 US gal/person/day).
Source: MOE, Procedure D-5-5, 1996.
Water Quantity Checklist
Ask the owner, neighbours or a local well contractor if there have been any problems
with the well or area wells running dry.
Verify the depth of the well and pumping rate from the well record. A surface well is
more likely to run dry in times of drought.
Have a licensed well contractor conduct a recovery test, if necessary.
Water Quality
The quality of the well water is very important. Poor water quality can lead to health problems, unpleasant
taste and odour, costly treatment systems and/or the costly use of bottled water. Well water can be contaminated
with bacteria and chemicals. Common sources of contamination include: infiltration from septic systems, manure
runoff, pet waste, road chemicals as well as dissolved chemicals naturally present in the groundwater such as
calcium, sulphur, chloride or iron.
Water Sampling
Your offer of purchase should always include a requirement that closing is conditional upon an acceptable water
quality evaluation. It would be ideal to take three water samples, about a week apart, with one of the samples
taken after a rainstorm when surface water contamination is most likely. If possible, take the water samples
yourself. The three samples should be analyzed for: total coliform, E. coli, and nitrate while one of the
samples should also be analyzed for: sodium, hardness, sulphate, chloride, lead, iron, manganese and pH. Ask the
laboratory to indicate the drinking water standards along with the results. Additional analyses can be conducted
including: metals scan, pesticides if the well is in an agricultural area with heavy pesticide use, or gasoline and
solvents if the well is near a gas station or industrial area.
Contact your local public health office for instructions on where to obtain appropriate sterile sampling bottles
and where to submit water samples for testing. Bacteria and nitrate are analyzed free of charge in some provinces
through local public health or Ministry of Environment offices, while the additional parameters will have to be
analyzed at a private analytical laboratory for a fee.
If possible, samples should be taken from a tap between the well pump and any water treatment units and/or
pressure tank. Follow the directions on the sample submission form for proper water sampling procedures.
Test Results — What Do They Mean?
If concentrations are higher than the limits described below, consult a water treatment systems supplier to
determine if a water treatment technology is appropriate. It is preferable to get several quotations.
Health Indicators
Escherichia coli (E. coli) or Faecal Coliform
These bacteria are found only in the digestive systems of humans and animals. Their presence in your well water
is usually the result of contamination by manure or human sewage from a nearby source such as a septic system or
agricultural fields. Drinking water contaminated with E. coli or faecal coliform causes stomach
cramps and/or diarrhoea as well as other problems and can even cause death. The drinking water standard for both
E. coli and faecal coliform is 0 counts/100 ml. A value of 1 or more indicates that the water
is unsafe to drink.
Total Coliform
This group of bacteria is always present in manure and sewage, but is also found naturally in soil and on
vegetation. The presence of these bacteria in your well water may indicate that surface water is getting into your
well. A total coliform value of 1 – 5 suggests that the safety of the water is doubtful, while a value of greater
than 5 indicates that the water is unsafe to drink.
Nitrate
The presence of nitrate in your well water is usually the result of residential yard or agricultural
fertilizers, or seepage from septic systems. Infants less than six months old can become sick from drinking formula
made with water high in nitrate (greater than 10 mg/L). If you have an infant less than six months old, it is
recommended to use bottled water.
Sodium/Potassium Chloride
Individuals who are on a sodium- (salt) reduced diet should consult with their physician if the level of sodium
in their well water exceeds 20 mg/L. Domestic water softeners typically use sodium chloride and this increases the
level of sodium in the drinking water. Potassium chloride is an alternative to sodium chloride for softening water.
However, individuals suffering from hypertension, kidney disease or congestive heart failure should consult their
physician prior to using drinking water containing high levels of sodium or potassium. A separate, unsoftened water
supply (by-passing the water softener) can be installed for drinking and cooking purposes if sodium or potassium is
a health concern.
Sulphate
At concentrations above 500 mg/L, sulphate can have a laxative effect and give a bitter taste to the water.
Lead
Lead concentrations in water are likely due to lead piping. Concentrations as low as 0.01 mg/L could cause
long-term health problems.
Aesthetic Indicators
Hardness
Hardness is a measure of calcium and magnesium in water. These elements precipitate with carbonate in boilers
and pots to form scale. Hardness also makes it difficult to form lather, requires more soap, and creates a soap
scum. Many homeowners decide to purchase a water softener, which replaces calcium and magnesium ions with
sodium or potassium ions. Hardness (as calcium carbonate) above 80 mg/L could require a water softener.
Chloride
Chloride concentrations above 250 mg/L can give a salty taste to the water and may corrode piping.
Iron and Manganese
Well water with iron concentrations above 0.3 mg/L and manganese concentrations above 0.05 mg/L could stain
plumbing fixtures and clothing; water may appear rust coloured or have black specks in it; can also cause a foul
taste in the water and bacterial fouling of the well screen.
pH
pH values of less than 6.5 or greater than 8.5 may cause corrosion of piping.
Water Quality Checklist
Water sampled on three different dates — preferably a week apart — from a tap between
the well pump and any water treatment units and/or pressure tank for: total coliform, E.
coli and nitrate.
Water sampled once for: sodium, hardness, sulphate, chloride, lead, iron, manganese and
pH.
Obtain copies of previous water quality test results from the homeowner. Ask if there
have been any water quality problems: frequent stomach illness (bacteria), odours (hydrogen
sulphide, methane), rust spots (iron), scale (hardness), slime growth in faucets (iron or
manganese), salty taste (chloride), bitter taste (sulphate).
Review with the owner the operation and reason for any water treatment systems (water
softener, disinfection system, reverse osmosis system, chlorination unit, etc.). Ask to see all
treatment device operating manuals.
Sample a glass of water for taste (salty, bitter), odours (hydrogen sulphide, methane),
cloudiness (small particles) and colour (a rusty colour can indicate a high iron content). Remember
you will be drinking this water every day.
Look for scale on fixtures or around the faucets indicating hard water. Lift the lid
and inspect the back of the toilet tank (the cistern) for sand, sediment, rust particles, scaling,
biological growth and any other visual clues which may indicate water problems.
Is there a "rotten egg" smell from the hot water heater? This indicates hydrogen
sulphide gas, which can corrode piping.
Drilling a New Well
The cost of a new well depends on the depth of the well and the local market. For drilling and casing, well
contractors usually charge a fixed rate per meter (or foot) of depth, whereas grout, seal, cap and screen
installation is usually charged at a fixed rate per well.
Septic Systems
The septic system accepts wastewater from the home (sinks, showers, toilets, dishwasher, washing machine),
treats the wastewater and returns the treated effluent to the groundwater. A conventional septic system is
comprised of two components: a septic tank and a leaching bed.
Septic Tank
A septic tank is a buried, watertight container, which accepts wastewater from your house (see Figure 4). Septic
tanks can be made from concrete, polyethylene or fibreglass and in the past were sometimes made from steel (if the
property has a steel tank, it is likely rusted through and needs replacing). Older tanks may be smaller than those
found today (the minimum current size in Ontario is 3,600 L (952 US gal). Current tanks have two compartments,
while older tanks may only have one compartment. Solids settle to the bottom of the tank to form a sludge layer,
and oil and grease float to the top to form a scum layer. The tank should be pumped out every three to five years
or when 1/3 of the tank volume is filled with solids (measured by a service provider such as a pumper). Some
municipalities require that septic tanks be pumped out more frequently. Bacteria, which are naturally present in
the tank, work to break down the sewage over time.
Figure 4: Common septic tank
Leaching Bed
The wastewater exits the septic tank into the leaching bed — a system of perforated pipes in gravel trenches on
a bed of unsaturated soil (minimum 0.9 m/3 ft. — see Figure 5). The wastewater percolates through the soil where
microbes in the soil remove additional harmful bacteria, viruses and nutrients before returning the treated
effluent to the groundwater. In cases where there is more than 0.9 m (3 ft.) of unsaturated soil from the high
water table or bedrock, a conventional system is used, where the network of perforated drainage piping
is installed either directly in the native soil, or in imported sand if the native soil is not appropriate for
treatment. In cases where the groundwater or bedrock is close to the surface, the leaching bed must be raised 0.9 m
(3 ft.) above the high water table or bedrock. This is called a raised bed system.
Credit: Eric Brunet, Ontario Rural Wastewater Centre, University of Guelph Figure
5: Septic system
Alternative Systems
Under certain site conditions such as limited lot area, high groundwater table or poor soil conditions (clay or
bedrock for example), a conventional system will not provide sufficient treatment of the wastewater. Under these
conditions, it is often possible to install an alternative treatment unit. The two most common types of alternative
treatment units are trickling filters, where the effluent from the septic tank trickles through an unsaturated
filter media (such as peat or a textile filter), and aeration systems, where the effluent from the septic tank
passes through an aerated tank.
Alternative treatment units provide a higher level of wastewater treatment, allowing the effluent to be
discharged to a smaller area than in a conventional leaching bed. Effluent from an alternative treatment unit can
also be discharged to a shallow buried trench, which is a pressurized pipe system 15 cm (6 in.) below the ground
surface. In most provinces homeowners with alternative treatment units are required to have a maintenance contract
with a service provider to inspect and maintain their systems.
Inspecting the Septic System
You should have the septic system inspected by a certified on-site system professional (such as a certified
installer or engineer) prior to purchasing the home. Call your local municipal office, public health office or
Ministry of Environment office for a list of qualified professionals.
The inspection should include: a discussion with the homeowner, a review of the system permit, a tank
inspection, a leaching bed inspection and a house inspection.
System Replacement or Repair
A septic system should last anywhere from 20 – 25 years, or even longer, if it is properly installed and
maintained with regular pump-outs every three to five years.
Questions to ask the homeowner:
Do you have a copy of the septic system permit?
When was the last time the septic tank was pumped out? Are there records of system
maintenance (tank pump-outs, system repair)?
Have there been any problems with the septic system: system backing up, foul odours,
effluent on the surface, soggy ground in the leaching bed, system freezing, toilet and drains
gurgling or draining slowly?
Have there been any potable water quality problems (E. coli, faecal coliform,
nitrate)? This could be due to infiltration of the well by leakage from the septic system and could
indicate a malfunctioning system. Results from the water quality samples that you take of the well
water may help indicate septic system problems.
Permit Review Checklist
The septic system permit can be obtained from the homeowner or the local municipal, Ministry of Environment or
public health office, depending on the jurisdiction. There may not be a permit for older systems.
Review the system permit: age, size and type of system and separation distances
(particularly from wells).
Verify the size of the system with respect to the size of the house.
Tank Inspection Checklist
Never enter or stick your head into a septic tank. Dangerous gases are present in septic
tanks, which can be lethal, even after the tank has been pumped out.
Compare the size of the tank and the expected water use, observe the general condition
of the tank: baffles, partition wall, look for cracks and leaks. A steel tank is likely corroded
and in need of replacement.
Observe the water levels in the tank (too high suggests a clogged leaching bed while
too low suggests a leaking tank).
Have the septic tank pumped out (the owner should pay).
Observe connections to the house and to the leaching bed (leaking pipes, crushed
pipes), look for direct discharge of surface drainage into the tank. Tire tracks on the leaching
bed could indicate crushed pipes.
Clean the effluent filter (if one exists) by rinsing with an outdoor hose, allowing the
rinse water to drain into the septic tank.
Leaching Bed Inspection
Check for effluent on the surface, odours, lush growth, soggy field/ saturated
soil.
Check for obstructions to the leaching bed (pavement over bed, trees in bed).
Verify that surface drainage is directed away from the leaching bed (for example,
downspouts are not saturating the leaching bed).
Dig test pits in the tile lines for signs of ponding water and biomat (slime) growth.
This indicates plugged tile lines, which may require repair or eventual replacement.
Inspect all mechanical equipment (pumps, aerators, alarms) to ensure they are in good
working order.
Indoor Inspection Checklist
Check for leaking faucets and run-on toilets (a run-on toilet can flood the septic
system). Slow moving drains and sewer-gas smells from flowing drains can indicate a failing
system.
Verify the plumbing (storm water and sump pump to ditch or dry well, toilet and sinks
to septic system). If there is a direct grey water discharge (sinks and bathtub are not going to
the septic system), it likely does not meet building code or health department standards.
Connecting the grey water to the septic system may require the installation of a larger septic
system.
Water softener discharge: USEPA reports suggest that it is appropriate to discharge
water softener backwash to a septic system. However, many jurisdictions encourage the discharge of
the water softener's backwash to a sump pump, ditch or dry well.
Under exceptional circumstances, the home may have a holding tank as opposed to a
septic system. A holding tank must be pumped regularly (every few weeks) which can add a
considerable expense to the household.
Inspect the sewer vent stack for damage or blockage. Simply removing an old bird's nest
might eliminate sewer-gas problems.
"How To Build A New Home Without
Going Broke" Whether
you're hiring a Builder, or a General Contractor, using a Construction Consultant or managing
your job as an Owner-Builder, you can use the resources presented to you here to get the home
you want. Once in a while, you will also receiveinfo
on new products, specials, and promotions, and up to date information on lots for sale in
Southern Ontario (often before they become available to the general public)
19
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